Our travels begin on April 3rd. On that Saturday we take the car and drive to Amsterdam. We've got 6 large suitcases and 6 pieces of hand luggage. "We" means Bart and myself, the kids Dylan, Troy and Laura, and my mom. At Schiphol, the Amsterdam air port, the people from 123parking take us to the guarded place where our car will be waiting for us over the next two weeks. They take us to the hotel we have booked for one night, and that is situated almost on the tarmac. The CitizenM hotel has rows of small rooms, the double bed fits right between the two walls (but it is the largest bed that I have ever slept in when staying in a hotel) and the space is used very cleverly. The toilet and shower can be shielded off by round walls that glide closed. One day later we enjoy an early breakfast in the trendy groundfloor catering space of the hotel and we leave for the airport's departure hall in time to check in. It is within walking distance from the hotel. Coincidentally we meet someone we know from Antwerp who should have flown yesterday, but his train was delayed and he missed his flight. We are so happy that we spent the night here. We fly KLM and have a lift-off around 9 am and after an 11 hour flight we land in Cape Town. It is dark there, but the temperature is nice, like a warm Summer's night in Belgium. Our guide, whom we booked through the internet, is waiting for us. Rushdi Harper has a small business, called Wow Cape Town Tours. He will show us all the things worth seeing and will also play taxi for us whenever needed. We have booked a hotel in the centre of Cape Town, the Holiday Inn Express (a lot cheaper than a hotel by the Waterfront)
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The next morning we take a short walk around the market place Above: a lot of people are Catholics in South-Africa, but there is also Left: everywhere there are handcrafted baskets and other articles |
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Architecture has many faces here: lots of buildings look Dutch, and Above and below: a walk along the harbour and many shops, |
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At The Waterfront you can find the most wonderful restaurants. |
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Rushdi takes us to "The Castle", where the Dutch legions built themselves a stronghold. The castle was once situated at the coastline, the street in front of it is still called "Strand street" (beach street), but in the meantime a large piece of land has been won from the see, typically Dutch ;) Above: near the castle there is a large square with the city hall, in the olden days only whites were allowed to go in there. |
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In the castle itself there is also the clash between old and new. Above: the swimming pool for officers only, in a nice cool coartyard. |
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On top of the thick walls you can enjoy a wide view. When you turn around you can visit the small prisons that used to break people's spirits. They were kept there up to 6 months without daylight and got tortured...until they confessed, whether they were guilty or not. Below: in one of the watch towers there was a bell that used to get tolled in emergencies. Now it is forbidden to do so, in three languages. The vandals who wiped some of the words obviously did not speak the local dialect. |
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After our visit to the castle we went to the brand new soccer stadium. The games of the 2010 World Cup will be played here and in Johannesburg. The whole of South-Africa is getting ready for this big event, everywhere there are people with soccer shirts and there are balls in the streets and in advertisments everywhere. We had hoped to get to Table Mountain earlier, but because of the strong winds we couldn't go at the start of our visit. After going to the stadium we had lunch in the beautiful and peaceful park "Company's Garden" (with tame doves and squirrels, and views on the parliament and palace, which are connected with a tunnel for VIPs). All of a sudden Rushdi gets a phone call: the cables are working! We hurry to Table Mountain. |
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A huge advantage of having an official guide: we can buy our entry tickets at a different desk so we don't have to stand in the queue behind hundreds of other tourists who have heard about the news. We get into the cilindrical, large cable "room with a view" and whilst moving upwards the guy manning the buttons explains what we can see thanks to the 360° rotating floor.
Once we get on the plateau of Table Mountain, we get emotional. There is a wild beauty everywhere we look. The landscape is really amazingly beautiful. |
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Something we didn't book ahead but decided to do on the spurr of the moment, and which was certainly worth while, is a helicopter flight of about 20 minutes. It cost us 4000 Zar for 6 people. Not cheap, but quite an experience! Here you can see a clip of the flight, which took us all the way around Table Mountain. Dylan was our co-pilot of the day. |
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One day later we get into the minivan around 9 am to take a Peninsular There are many beautiful bays along the coast line, often with white We make a stop in Houtbay (hout = wood) where the wood was chopped On the way we also visit a zoo where they have a wide variety of birds. |
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Our first African cat! A Lynx. Above: a bat-eared fox. |
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Further down our route we visit an ostrich farm. These animals are bred It is always nice to be able to stretch your legs once in a while, on your One of the things that caught my eye in South-Africa, is the mighty |
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The wonderful countryside flies past our windows. Rushdi is a good chauffeur and knows his way well, he also tells us loads of interesting things about what we see. The drive is very relaxing. Once we get to the Cape our eyes feast on another Lord of the Rings-like scene: rocks rising from the ocean in a misty atmosphere. It is quite a walk and a climb to the Cape Point, but it is worth it. |
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A mouse is not disturbed by the tourists, it nibbles on what they have |
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The stylish" Two Oceans" restaurant with views on both oceans sometimes has to close its terrace for its customers. When we were there this happened, too. The reason for this is agressive baboons. This is a national park and the animals are at home here. They don't only come to steal your food from your plate, they can bite and scratch you ferociously and are very strong. This means danger! |
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On the way back to Cape Town we pass Boulders Beach, where we go And like so many spots we have seen this one, again, is breathtaking.
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Our guide, Rushdi. |
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Rushdi takes us to a Township called Llanga one day. He hires a young man to take us through it because it is safer to walk around with someone who grew up here and knows the people who live here and speaks the language (Xhosa, which knows three different ways to click your tongue) Right: on our way back to Cape Town we drive passed the prison where Nelson Mandela spent his time until just before his release he was transferred to another prison. |
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At the time of our visit to the township there was an important soccer below: this is Easter Monday, a holiday. We are under the impression |
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Because there is no electricity, it often gets stolen from street lights (if the lights don't get The nice houses you can see in the picture on the right hand side, have been built by the government and were meant to improve people's lives. Originally it was said that they wouldn't have to pay for these homes, but once they were built the plans were changed. Sadly, these people don't have any money, so the result is that the houses are standing empty and cost a lot to the state because they have to be guarded against squatters or vandalism. The logic of South Africa... Below: and this is how children play in a township: in a cart without wheels, a sled without snow. |
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Because it is a religious holiday, chicken is on the menu. Above you To the left: a bedroom in the township. Sturdy brick walls, a luxury. Below and left: potatoes are being sold in small bags. |
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Left: a monument in honour of Amy Biehl, an American student who Below: we also visited an orphanage called Baphumelele. It is situated Below and left: the baby room. If you see a picture on this website that you think nice enough to put
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Everyone in the orphanage, children included, are helping to keep the Below left: Bart found a new friend here, he has a homemade "cap" |
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Adults get opportunities here as well: there is a crafts area where they can learn some carpentry. Old doors are magicked into beautiful frames for art work. To the right: South Africa is a world of extremes, we visit the wineries as well as the townships. We visit four of them, and have lunch and dinner there as well. Incredibly nice food...again. |
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One has to spit, otherwise one is not capable of tasting one's wine after |
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At the last winery, Seidelberg, we get a tour around the place while our guide takes a powernap in order to be in top shape for the drive back later that night. We stay here till the sun goes down and the stars come out, we eat a wonderful meal in a relaxed mood and will forever have fond memories of this perfect day. |
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After our fabulous time in Cape Town we take a national flight with Kulula Air. For a two hour flight we pay about 750 Rand a person. Before we land we can see circles way below. These are fields with crops. They are sown in this shape because it is easier for the irrigation systems to reach all of it. There is a big hole in the land as well, this has once been rich country, filled with expensive little stones. This is mining country. Hi-ho, hi-ho... |
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After we land we are picked up by a small transfer company (husband |
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Our lodge is very luxurious, there is a terrace with a small pool, a bouma (above and left) which translates as "a round, walled-in place where you can stoke a fire and have a braai (bbq)". On the right you can see the view from our terrace. Below, left is the living space and to the right the bathroom. There are two bedrooms and a large kitchen, and a laundry with a washing machine and dryer. Included (something we find out the next morning) is a crew that drops in to do the dishes and clean, they also put the laundry in the dryer while we are having breakfast. I could get used to this... |
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On Kololo's own domain there are lots of animals, but not lions, rhinoceros or elephants. We can walk around freely and take out mountainbikes as well. Still, we are careful not to leave the paths and we wear long sleeved pants to protect our skin against ticks. There are snakes here so at night we always check under the bed and between the sheets, although a ranger tells us this is not necessary when your bed is made. On our first night here we walk to the restaurant in the dark, the next day we discover that a ranger is supposed to pick us up and bring us back safely after dinner. On the second night our ranger almost drives over a snake that glides over the pathway we were walking along the night before, in the pitch dark. |
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One night one of the rangers answers a question on the stars that we can see here. The next day he has brought a special laser light with which he can point out the stars. He teaches us about the Southern Cross and how to determine where the south is at night. The sun turns the exact opposite way here than we are used to, which feels very weird. Sometimes it's like walking on a different plant. One afternoon we hurry to the big pool by the restaurant because I expect the sun to disappear behind the building in half an hour. Not so, it just travels inthe opposite direction and we can sit in the sun all afternoon! Above right: a termite hill. Below: a clear case of too much rain over the past weeks. Our ranger also tells us that when it rains a lot the snakes surface. A bit like the worms that sometimes "swim" in our lawn at home, I gather? |
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Above and right: every day a ranger drives around to refill the troughs To the left: a Dung beetle, peeping out of his hole in the soil. Left below: birds' nests. Right below: we drive to the neighbouring domain, where the |
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Left above: springbok. Their ears are black at the tops so that the young ones can follow the mothers throught the high grass when they have to flee. Left: rhino with a baby. |
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In Welgevonden game reserve they have only the white rhinos because the others get slaughtered for their horns. Left below: a Kudu male. You can tell how old it is by counting the turns in his horns. From the age of three the horns start to curl. Right below: Kudu females. |
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When we have been on the road for about three hours the sun goes down and the temperatures drop as well. In the jeep there are soft and warm blankets. A bit later we all look like Eskimo while we enjoy the views. Below: during a walk on the grounds of Kololo we spot baboons, they are called Bobbejaan in South Africa. |
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![]() The following day we join Lolo for another safari, this time we get very lucky from the moment we enter the reserve. There is a giraffe there. I never thought this animal could be so elegant! It goes from a stand still to a galop in zero seconds, and moves as if in slow-motion. Magnificent! A giraffe's calf drops about a meter to the ground when it gets born. This shock gets the heart to start pumping. Giraffes are fragile animals, very stress-sensitive. Their hearts are very large and weigh a lot. The difference between the sexes is often easy to tell by the stumps on their head; the males often have bald ones and the females have a tuft of hair on them. |
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Our ranger explains that there are 16 lions in this immensely big reserve. We would have to get very lucky to meet one. Elephants: same story. We follow some tracks of an elephant for a while, they are huge circles in the sand, when all of a sudden we spot our first real wild cat: a lioness is slowly walking down the path in front of us. We follow her at a safe distance, which is something she makes sure of herself as well: whenever we get too close for comfort, she stops and turns around to look at us. After twenty breath taking minutes she disappears into the shrubbery and over a hill. Lolo tells us there were cubs, but males from a different area fought off the father of the cubs, and the cubs were killed. A lion does not want another male's offspring in his pride. |
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Left: a Puff Adder crossing the road. Lolo was bitten by one of these |
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A little while after we've left the lioness behind, we spot an elephant in Did you know that an elephant can be left- or right "handed" just like |
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Left: the typical African landscape, with the silhouettes of the trees on |
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The cottage where we stayed. The disorder is completely ours ;) Above left: morning mists. Above right: darling Choco who comes to greet us in the morning. Below left: water tanks make sure there is running water. |
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The garden has been laid out beautifully, and the house is quite large. Still, we can't help noticing the walls surrounding the plot, with spiked wires on top. We feel that the white folk live in golden cages here. Apartheid, but the other way around: only the blacks are free to walk or ride bikes in the streets. For whites this is really not a safe thing to do. |
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One night Liz invites some other South-African Sphynx breeders. A few days later we visited Cullinan, the town where Willie lives. The below left: South Africa loves mosaics, they make the most wonderful |
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Willie is an artist, performer, singer, and a very good chef. He has his After Cullinan we drive towards Pretoria. On our way over there we |
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Later on we drive over the Hartbeespoortdam (hartebeest are a species of antilope that have horns that -to a very creative mind- grow in the shape of a heart.) There is a huge dam here, with a gate and a bridge over the dam. |
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Everywhere we look we are amazed at the creativity of the blacks, they try to set up businesses everywhere. Every crossroad has people selling the weirdest things. Some have facial paint and do a little dance for money. If you don't ignore them they will keep harrassing you. Below right: Pretoria after the garbage disposal strikes. They will have to clean this before the soccer games start. |
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East Rand Shopping mall, one of the many modern shopping malls in |
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Here you can watch a clip where Laura and Troy are floating in huge |
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Right: roasted corn cobs by the side of the road. |
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Left: most blacks use the freeway as a walking or biking route. They Below: we visited an other amusement park called Gold Reef City. |
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At Liz' home they braai a lot. The braai sits in a chimney in the veranda. This would be helpful at home in Belgium as well, since you will never be barbequeing in the rain or cold this way. |
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Due to the ashcloud in Iceland we can't leave for home on Saturday |